Casting Aluminum Wheels | Old Timey Casters

by: Brian Oltrogge

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Transcript:

[5.73]
recently I decided to try my hand and making my own old-timey wheels I started by making a 3d model in Rhino the wheel will be about six inches in diameter and it'll be super wide at three inches I originally intended these wheels to be for a cart for the foundry furnace [Music] intended to have a two on one wheel pattern if I wanted super wide wheels I could use the pieces as a split pattern if I just wanted wheels there were about an inch and a half I could simply use half the pattern once I had the 3d model I just needed to generate toolpaths and cut it out on my CNC [Music] [Applause] [Music]


[81.08]
the wood I'm using is one and a half inch thick poplar and is a nice dense wood for routing something like this


[97.13]
to be able to sand both sides in relation to each other I needed to temporarily glue them together Here I am using super 77


[137.81]
once all the sanding was done I could Reese Plitt the pattern [Applause]


[196.24]
I used a few coats of polyurethane to seal the surface


[205.92]
to find the center of any circle you can draw an arbitrary line across the circle divide the line in half and draw a perpendicular line towards the center do this as many times as necessary until you feel confident that you found the center


[229.73]
[Music]


[252.28]
Here I am using sodium silicate fan for the mold I am hoping for a nice texture on the inside of the wheel to add to that old-timey flavor [Music] after a few sodium silicate casts I have found that actual mold release works better than talc for keeping the pattern from sticking to the mold


[299.74]
the texture of sodium silicates hand is a bit like mashed potatoes I am adding screws here to help support the deep mold cavities Here I am flash carrying the mold with some co2 this penetrates about an inch and gives at least a little bit of strength to the mold here I'll be using talc on the parting line and I probably should have left a little bit more as it ended up sticking a bit


[360.9]
the best thing about sodium silicates hand is how forgiving it is small areas can be patched before the sand cures


[419.96]
here I'll cut the gates and runners


[429.94]
[Applause]


[459.0]
and now I'll melt some aluminum [Applause]


[503.37]
[Music]


[512.34]
[Music] here I'm degassing and removing the drawers


[530.96]
[Applause] [Music]


[543.11]
[Music] let's see how it turned out here you can see the old-timey texture that I was hoping for I'll just need to cut off the gates and trim the parting line


[602.019]
[Music]


[617.7]
I am using a bit of masking tape to keep the overspray to a minimum I'll end up standing the lift to get a crisp line aluminum primer will etch the surface and help the paint bond to the aluminum


[648.29]
[Music] here are the finished wheels I don't know what I'll do with them yet but I think they turned out great oh and by the way a friend told me you can't call the deep dish wheel unless you can fit a dollar on the lip



Description:
More from this creator:
I thought I’d try my hand at casting some old timey wheels in aluminum. These were originally intended for a cart that would carry my foundry furnace (they still might eventually be used for this). They are extra wide for transporting something ultra heavy across the lawn where thinner wheels would just press into the soil. To cast thinner wheels, I'll simply use half of the pattern. For those of you who will ask why sodium silicate and not petrobond! I decided to use sodium silicate sand primarily for the texture it leaves, but also because I had minimal draft on the pattern (~5 degrees). Also, sodium silicate sand is much more forgiving for such deep details. www.grunblau.com

Music: How About It, Topher Mohr and Alex Elena; YouTube Audio Library Hyperfun Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)

Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

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