Beeswax Rendering Part 2: From Solar Extractor to Final Product

by: Honey Bee Honey

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Transcript:

[23.3]
okay the second step in and preparing beeswax how I do it and of course this is a very small time operation I have 50 hives you know I probably get I don't I have no idea how much wax idea but it's probably on the order of 40 pounds which is a lot of wax but you know major beekeepers get a lot more than that this is how it came out of the solar extractor alright so this is a big this is a decent melt and but not a not not a great one I mean in fact you usually I get much better than that but it's in a fall now the days are shorter for one and there and there won't and they're cooler for two so as a wax get the water in this particular mold the wax solidified the water never got to above 140 degrees so typically you get a nice water wax separation and a nice block but this one didn't happen it doesn't matter the goal was accomplished you separated the honey from the wax and most of the propolis as well so this is this is pretty pure honey really or beeswax this is pretty pure beeswax actually but what I did here is I put water in the bottom of this pan and I want the water in there I'm going to melt the wax until it's fully molten and then I'm going to pour it back into the same mold that these came out of together because uh you know it's easier to work in larger quantities of beeswax began so I'm going to pour this back into that same mold and the water is going to do the same thing the wax is going to float on the water any honey that's left in there and there is some but very little will mix with the water and the propolis will will Kate to the very bottom of the mold so this is the second process you just melt wax with water pour it into another mold and let it separate and then then you can go on to the final part process okay you can see it's all melted in there if you're not sure if it's all melted just get a stick that you know you only use it for be keeping her for beeswax processing and stir it a little bit in there and you'll be able to fill ther any chunks so what I'm going to do next is just pour this into a mold which I have set up right here and the water is going to sink to the bottom and the relax to the top and everything in between is going to go in between so but just pour it in there the wax is going to go in first and then the water and you'll see all the different the propolis and everything coming out of there and you just now you'll let this sit for for a few hours what you don't want since the water maintains its heat for so long it takes a very long time for the wax underneath the very bottom part of the wax that's against the water to cool so you need this to be absolutely cool to the touch on the sides and again don't disturb it you can see that just in the time I've been talking there's a bead of wax around the edges of the mold that's pre solidified and you can see it's starting to form you know but it'll stay like this for a little while and then everything will separate and I'll show you what happens when it's done it's literally been just a couple minutes maybe three minutes since I poured this in the last part of the video and you can see that the sediment is at the very bottom there and it may stay at the bottom in the water which would be great or may stick to the bottom of the wax but either way you know it's going to be separated in a large part from the wax and and what isn't separated will be in the next step when we prepare the final the final metal there okay it has been a number of hours since I poured this and if you tilt it you can see the water and the honey mix and even some of the propolis come out so all we need to do now is separate that and dry it okay so the first the easiest way that I think to do this is just a first of all just tilt it get all the what is much the water out of the pan as you can that leaves kind of a that leaves a cavity underneath and then I use focus kinda move around a little bit pop it out to see the propolis on the bottom you can it's easier if you scrape that off don't do it in your kitchen sink but what I'm going to do is take a towel and rub that off and get it dry at the same time because on the next melt you don't want any water in your next melt so make sure it's completely dry before you start the next process but that is a nice big block of wax and most of it is very very pure the propolis is on the bottom of it okay like I said just kind of rub as much this off as you can the more you get off the easier it'll be in the next phase and you can't actually scrape all of this off you have almost trippi's wax but I don't typically do that all I try to salvage as much of this beeswax as possible but again you know if you're going to throw this right away in there and start you know going to the next phase which I'll show you you want you'll want to dry it completely you do not want water in the next process so that's about as good as I'll get it the rest all filter out when I do the next process however I'm not going to do it with this one I'm just going to store this for now okay to prepare to filter your wax I just have an empty kettle and of course I've used it before so you know wax in there before but this is actually use a clean like I said I think somewhere else in the video I use a clean and then and then a dirty wax you know pot so this one is my clean wax the only thing I ever put in here is is clean wax or wax that is being filthy so I just took a t-shirt old sweatshirt whatever sweatshirts work really good and then or t-shirts to filter this out cheesecloth doesn't work as well as you think it's just not not fine enough some of the propolis gets through there and I just take rubber bands and I put it on there and then I create you know a little bit of a bowl for for porn the waxing I lit a little bit if I can this ones angled a little that way so a lot of the propolis is going to go here but once the wax starts to fill up then then the foreign material will start sticking to the outside here so that's how you prepare that and the only other thing you have to do is heat up that block of wax and then we'll start pouring through okay so the next process after this is fully dry and again you don't want any you really don't want any water in this and the reason is is because the water will stay in here and and it will separate just like it did before and when it does and you pour it in your mold the water is going to sink to the bottom is going to create little little bubbles because the water will evaporate once you separate it from the mold so you want this completely dry I had to take a compressor and blow the air out of that crack that happened in the wax there so then you want to take the same pot it's a it's still the dirty one take that and melt this down you know all the way so there's no water in here now it's just the block of wax but I'm still using a double boiler because you always want to keep water between the wax and the flame this product this part of the process pretty easy you just melt this down and then below then we're going to pour it through a filter and and after that you'll have pure beeswax okay the first thing I need to do is warm up this filter just a little bit so I got a heat gun here it only take a second but you want to heat up the filter just a little bit because otherwise as soon as the wax get it hits it it's going to cool and although the wax that is following it up will you know subsequently melt that wax it does cause a little bit of a process where it puts the damper on things so heat this up a little bit and then take your your wax directly off the flame and pour it through the filter and I found that when you do this you want to try to get as much you can hear the wax going through the filter there as much so I keep it almost full there and then I just adjust how much I'm going in there - how much is is going out you don't want to let it drip over but you also want to put a little bit of pressure you know in the form of weight of this wax on there so that actually pushes it through there a little bit and it takes the loss oh you know the bigger the filter the faster this will go I use a very you know a t-shirt basically so it's it's pretty fine and if it gets to the point where this stuff in your pot starts to re solidify you can always put it back on the warm water and use a heat gun to keep this warm until it goes down just a little bit but as you can see most of the stuff coming out of here is is clean up to this point now you see some stud darker stuff come through so that's on the bottom so I kind of move it around just a little bit at least I try it too because you don't want to it helps to keep the filter from clogging and then I use two methods I'll show both - both of them to you but I'm almost done here basically here's all the junk most of it it doesn't matter you know you can always heat this up to stop flowing can always heat that up and wipe it out with a paper towel that's what I usually do but then to keep that flowing just turn your heat back heat gun back on and just just kind of hate it with your ego and that does one of two things it heats it up obviously and it also gives a little bit of pressure to go through that filter and then as it gets lower and lower you can get closer and Rhys remelt the stove on the edge there some of which will get soaked into the cloth and some of them some one which will go through so


[729.88]
and the other way is I put it back on back on the heat which I left on that hot water putting it back on there helps as well show you that I just put it back on the stove and and you can see that it's going to keep this warm up here you'll still need a heat gun I usually do anyway but it also is re liquefying the wax that fell in there that filtered through this it's real iqua Clank because because as soon as you pull this filter off that's what I'm going to pour it into my molds over here okay I've taken off the filter and there is the final product you can most of the time beeswax is pretty clear when it's molten like that and you can look down through and see if you've filtered out most of the material before you actually pour it into the final product and it looked pretty clear to me so Anna member this is capping so you know it's it it's about as clear as it gets so the next thing I'm gonna do is pour it into the mold so I will try not to get in a way and remember that you know as you're pouring this beeswax starts to solidify fairly quick so you don't have an you know an extremely long amount of time but and then this is a very inexact way to measure beeswax of course but I'm just just tying the operation and once you kind of start seeing the wax go around the edges you're there and just remember that


[838.4]
the wax you can see the stuff that hang on the side maybe you can see is already solidified so I try to get these blocks as full as they'll go without without flowing over but they're supposed to be one ounce blocks of wax and so that's what I sell them at all so as you're pouring this you can you can tell if there's sevens in there and there really wasn't you can see that the tone difference you can see the change in you know in color just because of the amount of beeswax in each sample but that is there for your final product you've poured it into your mold you can do this of course you can wake up a candle and pour it into the candle mold and then leave it but what you do want to do is not disturb it now so in these square molds if if it recedes a little bit it's okay with me you know I'm just measuring out basically a pound and an ounce or in that case five ounces but in a candle what might happen is as the as the as the beeswax starts to cool it shrinks just a little bit now it's good for it to shrink in a mold like this because that helps me get it out of the mold and it doesn't a candle as well but what happens is you get a bowl shaped thing on the bottom so keep some wax you know liquid when you're pouring into a candle mold and then just add a little bit once it shrinks a tiny bit just add a little bit you can also it helps to maybe stir it with a little tiny you know stick or something in a candle mold but in this case I'm just making it to sell or to use in my own operation so that it's easily measured out in ounces or pounds depending on what I make them so that is the final product right there and I'll show you once it cools but you want to leave it cool you don't want to create excessive vibration around this area because this big block will crack if it gets vibration once it started to settle a little bit this is what she'll look like after just a few minutes you can see the wax starting to to cool on the top this stuff is already completely cooled over and if you can see it there's a darker color underneath it so it's still molten in the middle but that's what it kind of will look like okay it's probably been an hour or so since I poured this in my video and well it's not completely absolutely dry or cool I should say it is enough that you can pull this out so sometimes if you over pulled a little bit or if you'll report a little bit you'll have these little tabs on there I just break them off and I put them back in the same container that I poured it this is an extremely you know clean wax and you can just report but since these 1 ounce blocks take so much you know so much less time to cool to the point where you can pull them out of the mold it is you know it's it's one of those things you can do that you can pour three or four of these in the time that it takes you to pour a 1-pound block and these sell a lot better because people usually measure the amount of wax that they're using in a in a recipe buy ounces usually so it's easier so it's easier for them okay and here's the wax that came out of the mold it took a little bit up an hour and 15 minutes probably our intent hour and 15 minutes or something you can see it's a little still a little soft on the top usually I leave them in overnight or for at least 3-4 hours but just to complete this video I wanted to pop it out of there and you can feel on the mold whether or not it's ready to come out or not but there you have it this is still warm to the touch and but it'll it'll cool actually faster now that I got it out and if you're ready you know if you're if you're in a hurry to do that so you can pour another block you know it works that way too so there's the final product I really hope you enjoy the video hope it was informative anyway I'm sure that everybody's process is going to slightly different so you know some parts of it will be I'm sure you be able to improve on the process too



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Starting off where part 1 ended, I take the block of wax rendered by the solar extractor, render it down a little further and then do one last melt, filter the wax and pour it into molds. One thing I forgot to mention during filming is that you should be careful when filtering to use a material that will not discolor the wax. Usually, in addition to using old t-shirts (cotton) it is safer to use a good quality paper towel, or a large coffee filter. This assures that the wax will not take on any color changes. Once wax is discolored, I am unaware of any way to remove it. Instead, you may have to artificially color it, back to its natural color...and I don't like that idea, personally. Hope you like the video!
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