what exactly are you doing I thought my triangle speed helps to make why exactly see if it makes my arm look big now seems fair enough to me whatever you do don't drop the revolver though make sure that lock things don't waffle or something no there's a drop safety in any case I really hope it's not loaded it isn't is it that gives me a great idea for the next episode of bloke on the range
hello good evening and welcome to another action-packed and fun-filled episode of bloke on the range this evening we're looking at the exciting topic of Smith & Wesson drop safeties why because reasons when my darling wife came in right there with my 586 on her hip I suddenly realized that in my shooting back I had one of each type of Smith & Wesson drop safety and I thought well why don't we crack open the old girls and let you all have a look now what we've got here is a full five five-pound objective late first of all walk queen got a lamb and pea in 38 Smith & Wesson 1944 possibly only 45 and we've got a 586 1981 so let's break em open and let you have a look now first of all let's have a quick refresher on how you get one of these apart first of all you select the correct
so first of all we take the grip panel off and then on these older ones there's four screws that hold the side plate on on the later ones they've only got three screws and the top corner is held in with a little tab now if we take these off and I always find it useful to keep track of which screw is whish Princip all these bottom three are the same but you never know now we've got all the side plate screws off now and in fact having taken that screw out we can now remove the cylinder if we want to which we will just make life easier now this is where people go wrong people will sometimes go in and start trying to leave at the side plate off in fact all you have to do is hold the revolver by its barrel and give it a tap now let's have a little look inside at what's going on here for those that don't know that's the main spring makes the hammer fall that's the hammer trigger cylinder stop and this little piece here is called the trigger return slide and the important Springs for the trigger pull are this one obviously it makes the hammer fall and the return spring in this is in the trigger returns like that and the nice thing about Smith & Wesson's is that if you're careful you can remember that we have to pull this back if we want to operate the trigger we can see how it works and we can see how it works a double action and how it works a single action now one thing you should be aware of if you're doing this is you're putting far more stress on the on the pins than if it was in place because the pins fit into corresponding holes in the side plates and a much better supportive so what we'll do is we'll just take the tension off the mainspring for that around with this now you'll see that when the Hammers forward and the trigger is released the firing pin doesn't protrude from that hole right there this is because unlike the bulldog revolver I showed you in an earlier video the hammer on a Smith & Wesson ton in fact on most revolvers withdraws once you release the trigger and we can show this quite easily so the triggers pulled let's get the light in the firing pin protrudes and when you release the trigger it withdraws I just show you that again sorry sorry for the light we're working with what we've got here so firing pin protrudes release the trigger it withdraws now why is that on a Smith & Wesson when the trigger is pulled that the trigger returns slide doesn't block the hammer and as a little can no cancer is there on the hammer and a corresponding camp surface on the trigger return slide and when you don't go it would draw the hammer and when the trigger is forward you'll see that the camp surface is blocked against the top of three to return slide can't go forward you can hit that as hard as you want in principle and it can't go forward so let's try that again triggers pulled hammer comes back trigger returned slide gets out of the way hammer Falls trigger returns light cans the hammer back and then blocks it now the first type of drop safety effectively here is that it is inherently safe if they hit this car pivot clockwise because it's entirely blocked by the trigger it turns light that's great it's safe but well this is a big but what happens if it gets dropped on a hammer so hard that that pin shears through I remember that it's supported at both sides so if it shares its going to share right through so what can happen with his early type is if he gets a really really good hard knock it can nevertheless father the cartridge that's in line we're talking about knock here but they thought it was a significant enough problem to want to engineer it out so now we'll skip forward to the first type of proper hammer block safety that they put in there so on to number two [Music] excuse the grips I like to keep my revolvers pretty greased up now what you might notice here is compared to the other one on the hand there's a little sort of ribs sticking off as a comparison here the hand there's nothing on it this one has a special rib they're at an angle I know it it's basically it extends out the back at an angle like that and what we have here in the side plate is a positive trigger block this here is withdrawn when the hand rises and the hand rises when the trigger is pulled to turn the cylinder and then at any other time that is in the way of the hammer that angled rib on the back of the hand pushes on this little tab here difficult see on video I know which comes out away so when that is in position on the revolver there are no way around that
there is stuck in here when my screwdriver blade is so that even if that pin breaks the hammer can't go forward great but and this is another big but there's a story that during the Second World War somebody carrying one of these if a were in fact a victory model which is very similar to this but parkerized instead of glued was working on a ship dropped it dropped it two decks and it landed on the hammer went off why now a lot of the oils used at the time after a while they'd get gummy and sticky and this is sprung here so it's positively pushed out the way by the hand but it requires its own spring tension as it is from there to bring itself back and the problem was once that had got all gummed up in practice and manipulation he gets pushed him but it's basically glued in so he's not doing anything whoops so at about the end of the Second World War they replaced this system with this now number three I do like things that dope ping now because this one is one competition gun I'm naughty and I take the drop safety out of it because it improves the trigger pull I'm not going to be dropping it to decks on a victory ship so I don't feel any compunction in leaving it out or I should have two of them in here right now so that you can see what they do from each side and what they did here he's on the trigger return sliders pin like that be able to see that that looks like there that's the hammer block which goes in between the frame and the hammer face and sits on the pin now this isn't a transfer bar no cheap revolvers have a transfer bar which simply allows the hammer to strike the firing pin this isn't a transfer bar this is a block now on the other side on the side plate you can see the slot it runs in and there's an opening there for the for the for the contractor going so when the triggers not pulled that's up it's blocking the hammer when you pull the trigger the trigger return slide moves backwards takes the Tang with it trigger attend slide moves backwards as controls and draws the hammer block down out of alignment and when the trigger returns it's positively pushed back up and the advantage of this system is that it can't get totally gummed up with oil and failed to operate because it is positively driven both up and down it's not relying it's not relying on its own spring effectively it will only not come down if the trigger doesn't go forward and that's a mightily much more powerful spring than the one inside play so there you go obviously taking this out voids or warranties but this is more than 30 years old anyway so Matt as a general point when putting these things back together be gentle there are an extremely tight fit so gently with something very simple my stick or rawhide that's it most of work down then put the screws in and don't tighten one screw down really really hard before tightening the others tighten them down progressively so what I'll do first is I'll tighten them down to line it up and nipped up this yeah that nips up yeah and then each one little by little till it's sufficiently tight suddenly takes more naps on the bottom I connoisseurs will notice that I've done something stupid which is I'm not put the cylinder back in the end so that's it I've now got a part of revolvers to put back together but in the meantime see you again sometime
More from this creator:
Bloke's gorgeous platinum-haired wife, through being a bizarre and dozy git, inspires him to invite you into the rich history and wonderful world of S&W hammer block safeties through the ages.
Featuring a century-old .455 Hand Ejector Second Model, an M&P in .38 S&W, and a very early 586. Plus, a rare and privileged glimpse of his beautiful wife!
Also includes not only a dumb, kitchy sketch, but also bonus material of what Every Schoolboy (and -girl) should know, namely how to get a S&W apart (disassembly) and back together again (reassembly) without wrecking it, and how the various internal hammer blocking thingamabobs do their thang.
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