Kegerator Build with Fridge Teardown

by: Zemba Craftworks

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[Music] hey Internet today we are going to build a kegerator out of a mini-fridge with enough space for two homebrew pegs we're also going to be tearing this fridge apart so that you can see exactly where the condenser and evaporator lines are run so that you do not accidentally drill into them the reason I have a spare fridge to do this is because I accidentally drilled into them moving on I'm using Cornelius Baldock kegs coming for home brewing but they can differ in dimensions so these ones that I have are about eight and a half inches in diameter and just under 25 inches tall some of them are shorter and wider which makes it a little more difficult to find a fridge where you can fit two side by side you have the option go ahead and go with the thinner ones now our fridge with the shelves removed we have a footprint of 16 inches by 11 and a half inches which is just enough to squeeze the two kegs in side by side to make sure everything fits comfortably we're going to need to remove the plastic molding and a little bit of insulation from the door and vertically we need to bend to the freezer tray down to the back to make sure that we have enough height so the next step is to take this freezer tray and bend it flush against the back of the fridge where we've been down the tray we have to remove the control unit which is just a single Phillips head screw it's also a temperature probe that you'll need to disconnect from my freezer tray there's two Phillips head screws on each side that we're gonna need to undo before we can bend it back and then once we do be extremely careful to make sure you do not puncture the coolant line in the back of the tray now on this fridge the freezer tray has a bracket that holds the feed line in place I recommend clipping that out with the pair of clippers before you bend it down just to make sure that you don't put any added strain on as you bend it put some pressure upwards on the line in the back you're going to need to move the control unit up and over the tray and once you have it in place you can go ahead and screw back in with a bead two original screws go ahead and find a spot to remount the temperature control unit on the side vertically here is a pretty good option depending on how you want to fake your kegs and your co2 tank in there and then you're also going to want to make sure that you remount the temperature probe onto the freezer trade in this original spot once you have the freezer tray bent down to the back you can go ahead and test fit your kegs if they're the same dimensions as mine you'll see that they almost fit but not quite not enough to close the door all the way so what we're gonna do is go ahead and trim down these plastic ridges on the door take out a little bit of insulation and then we'll have enough room for everything to fit it nice and comfortably before you start modifying the door on the bottom here if you undo the screws you can go ahead and remove the door before you start cutting the insulation now with the door all we really need to do is cut out this plastic so that it's nice and flat and it doesn't bump into the kegs when I close the door easiest way to do that is either with a box cutter or an exacto knife if you follow the seam along the edge you can press the knife right in I have just a flat door all right we got our door back on we have our magnetic strip back on it's a bit of a tight fit with two kegs in there but the door closes all the way which is all we need if you do want some more tolerance you can go ahead and trim some of the plastic and insulation out from the sidewalls which will give you plenty of space another option which is what I did is to add a buckle latch to the door to make sure it stays closed and gives you a good seal at this point we are basically one draft hour away from a kegerator which means it's time to start thinking about where we want to drill a hole so let's take a look at our sacrificial fridge and see where you can drill without hitting anything with the foam removed or mostly removed you can see we have the evaporator line and the back and the condenser lines on the sides primarily with a little on the top in the back the condenser lines are primarily on the sides of the fridge and zigzag back and forth about two inches apart on the top the line crosses over and loops out toward the middle about eight and a quarter inches from the back edge of the fridge and then zigzags again on the other side the evaporator line comes up from the bottom on the Left loops once and then connects to the freezer tray on the right hand side we have the wiring for the temperature control which is clipped here but normally runs up the side to the control unit we also have an insert on the right hand side where the switch for the Dorset's for reference here are some drawings based on the fridge teardown but again remember that you'll want to leave plenty of clearance when deciding where jerger holes because this can definitely vary from fridge to fridge so from our sacrificial fridge we know that the condenser line comes out approximately eight and a quarter inches from the back it's about two inches wide the fridge is 19 and a quarter inches wide so the center line is nine and 5/8 inches so I'm going to drill the hole for the draught our ten and a half inches from the back edge that gives me enough clearance to drill just under a three inch hole and also leaves room for the four mounting holes for the flange I'm gonna start out with that quarter inch drill bit to drill a pilot hole and then use a step drill bit to widen it to an inch and a half which is enough for two beverage lines if you want a larger hole you can use a hole saw although the step drill bit is really the easiest way to go on the sheetmetal if you use your pilot hole to mark out the diameter on the inside you can cut out the plastic remove the phone carefully and convince yourself that there's no lines that you're gonna hit when you widen the hole we look to be in good shape you can see the sheet metal on top you can see the pilot hole and there's no condenser lines in sight so we can go ahead and widen this hole with the step bit [Music] optionally I put another hole on the back for gas lines if you want to keep your co2 tank outside or have a secondary nitrogen tank or run any wires in for a brew pie or anything else this hole actually doesn't take any drilling at all there's already a hole in the sheet metal where I assumed they'd spray the foam in so you can just cut through the foam and the plastic and then you have your secondary entry point I've got the holes marked for our flange again you want to make sure you're at least eight and a half or nine inches from the back edge to make sure you avoid that condenser line that is the last of the drilling and we're ready to mount our Tower they also have 3d printed plastic inserts for the holes that we drilled just for appearances one for the top one for the back and then corresponding pieces for the inside I'm using quarter twenty two and a half inch hex head bolts with a flat washer on each side

this is our final fit with two kegs and a five pound co2 tank the tower that I'm using is a three inch diameter chrome abs draft Tower from Williams brain with two inner tab tower shanks and faucets and the drip tray with the tower cut out is also from Williams your keg will have an inlet post for the co2 sometimes designated by a star-shaped base and the outlet post for the liquid the connection to the post is a ball lock quick disconnect black for liquid and white for gas they are not interchangeable the way these go on is to pull up the flange pop it onto the post and release the flange if your disconnects have hose Barb's you can attach the hoses directly I prefer to use the flare nuts the tower shanks have a 90 degree hose barb with a curved flange to match the curvature of the tower and then an Associated curved insert for the inside you'll want to start by attaching the hose to the shank with a hose clamp three sixteenths inch inner diameter is the common size for beer tubing on the other end of the tubing attach your flare nut but do not attach the quick disconnect just yet as we still need to feed this down through the tower make sure you have the flange on the outside and then start feeding the tubing into the tower before you feed it all the way down into the fridge and your curved insert and the shank nut if you have a shank wrench you can try and use that to tighten the nut but it's a tight fit and the tower no matter what so I always end up tightening it with some needle nose pliers then feed the lines down into the fridge we have some insulation to keep the beverage lines cold in the tower if you can try and squeeze them in through the top but sometimes it's easier to just disconnect the tower and put it in through the bottom

that's all there is to it I hope this was helpful and enjoy your kegerator Cheers

More from this creator:
In this video, we're making a two-tap draft tower kegerator out of a mini-fridge, complete with a teardown of the fridge to map out the coolant lines and find where it's safe to drill. This kegerator design fits two 8.5" diameter corny kegs and a 5 lb CO2 tank. Cheers! Music Credit: Noir by S Strong & Boogie Belgique PARTS LIST: Mini Fridge --

Draft Tower --

Tower Shanks --

Drip Tray --

Faucets --

Faucets (Perlick) --

Faucets (Intertap) --

Ball Lock Disconnect (Gas) --

Ball Lock Disconnect (Bev) --

Flare Nut --

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