Streaming Sunday #18: Retinyl palmitate in sunscreen, where to spend/save on products, back acne

by: Veronica Gorgeois

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hello everyone welcome back to another streaming Sunday hope you've all had a wonderful week let me see what people want to talk about today I have a few really interesting questions from patreon so let me actually get started there but first let me say hi to people in chat hello to Aaron bee and Richard and Kristen and nickel dime oh yeah I quit my job so I can watch these videos live well thanks well I didn't quit my job so I can watch these videos but now that I have quit my job now I can awesome high five well I hope you get another job soon a better job so I want to start out with a question from patreon that is actually not skincare related but this is a really important topic to me from a patreon supporter named Jenna says you've mentioned before that you are a member of the queer community I have really been struggling recently with figuring out my sexuality thanks a lot to my strict religious upbringing and I'd love to hear about your experience and any advice you have so the reason I want to talk about this specifically in the live stream which you know if you are not maybe you're not familiar with all the different kinds of things that people say about LGBTQ people around the world at different times we get very insulated living in places like Los Angeles or New York and we kind of forget that people around the world still struggle with this and people around the country still struggle with this a lot so on Friday I saw this tweet from one of the BBC accounts one of the official BBC accounts it says is it morally right for five-year-old children to learn about LGBTQ issues in school is it morally right this question is posing and it's opposing this to say that the default would be that that it is moral to not talk about LGBTQ people in school so I I want to answer this very openly and that I've been wanting to talk more about it LGBTQ issues and the fact that I am a pansexual person more openly because I I just feel like it's time to just be more open about this so that these kinds of questions stop being asked because I know that if I had grown up with people who had actually told me anything about anything then I would have had a much less confused life so the question is basically how did you figure out who you are and what your sexuality is and for me it was very very very confusing because I grew up being interested kind of in everybody in a vague way but also not it wasn't it was confusing specifically because you know f once I became a teenager and I knew that bisexuality was a thing I knew I wasn't that because of the way people described it and because of the way I felt I knew that I wasn't bisexual I just was not someone who was attracted to men and women I was attracted to specific people and that's still true I'm not uniformly attracted to any gender of people if anything I'm kind of like more most attracted to people who are a mix of what you would consider stereotypical gender qualities so it took a really long time and so for a very long time even when I was living in West Hollywood and working with drag queens and like working with gay people and LGBTQ people no one talked about women's sexuality in particulars so I eventually just started calling my sexuality fluid because it just seemed to change all the time and it wasn't until much much later that I learned the term pansexual and that was pretty much it attraction without regard for gender so my advice to you since you are conscious of this because I always knew that I wasn't straight I just didn't know what to do with that information what I would recommend to you is that you talk to people in online circles there's there's so many people you can talk to now that isn't a resource I didn't have growing up so you can find communities of people line in anonymous ways you know anonymous forums and or you can just read the way other people described and just kind of pay attentions to pay attention to the feelings that you have about people and the attractions that you have towards people and don't be in any rush to declare who you are to anyone you don't owe that to anyone I never like officially came out to my family or friends like all of my friends pretty much were just like oh yeah you're queer like no kidding but I never like took the time to be like dear family I am NOT straight I just kind of like slipped it into conversation eventually and they were like oh I not everyone has that luxury but you know just don't feel like you have to you don't owe it to anybody to declare to them who you are you know what I mean so um if you ever need someone to talk to feel free to DM me but I would just encourage you to explore explore just like note how you feel about things and go exploring there's absolutely no shame in talking about this and the fact that no one talks about this in school no one talks about this with kids growing up no one talks about this with adolescence and despite the fact that no one talks about it there are still lots of LGBTQ people it's important that you know those of us who are a bit older you know less decrepit old people in our 30s extend ourselves to people who are still figuring it out so I hope that was helpful feel free to reach out to me if you need to let me answer some questions from live chat aaron b says hello Veronica I'll probably miss the stream but I wanted to pop in early to ask something all the same could you talk about antioxidants in skin care regarding antioxidants what are they for and what are some antioxidant ingredients and whether there are differences in the performance between those ingredients okay well I talked about antioxidants a lot so let me just give you an overview all right so antioxidants what are some antioxidants so vitamin C obviously vitamin A retinol vitamin E this is actually gonna relate to another question we have coming up vitamin C a E and there are some other ones there are lots of different forms vitamin C that may or may not be in products tocopheryl you'll see in products a lot it's used as an antioxidant preservative a lot or it may be used to stabilize other ingredients a lot sometimes people use vitamin E on its own retinol you've probably heard a lot about recently that is vitamin A it gets converted to retinoic acid in the skin and it has antioxidant properties but it also triggers cell turnover in the skin and then vitamin C it and this is this goes for all of the antioxidants but vitamin C in particular is really really great for combating the free radical damage from UV exposure and also seemingly from blue light exposure so and from pollution and stuff like that and vitamin C is also a mild tourist news inhibitor inhibitor which makes it great for hyperpigmentation so what generally happens with vitamins or antioxidant products is that because antioxidants are unstable they are often combined together to stabilize each other and they are sometimes added to formulas specifically to stabilize formulas so there may be small quantities of antioxidants in various formulas to help those formulas stay stable on the Shelf for longer what do they do let's see what was the other what was different any other nuts no green what are the differences and the performance between those grades okay so I think that Carolina is we stand a pan yes I got my my pin on today decided to represent um difference in performance I think that vitamin E is probably like the most underwhelming on its own it's a really great thing to pair with other ingredients and it's very cheap so it's it's great if like you have very little budget and you need something kind of simple it but I think it's best compared with other things and it's just a very versatile ingredient in formulation vitamin A retinol is probably the most the one that causes people the most problems because it can cause irritation pretty easily depending on the skin type and it does increase density sensitization to the Sun so it's very important I mean it's always important to wear sunscreen but it's especially important if you were using any kind of substantial quantity of retinol and we're going to talk about retinol retinol palmitate in particular in sunscreen today and the vitamin C is if you're getting it at either in a form that is decent for sensitive skin or if you're getting it at a safe concentration vitamin C I feel is the least well it's it's it's less irritating the retinol it doesn't have the same effect and in terms of cell turnover so I don't really say like choose one or the other but vitamin C is the antioxidant that has been studied in conjunction with sunscreen use so that's the one that when I talk about combining antioxidants with sunscreen to get better protection I'm specifically talking about vitamin C because that's the one that has the research behind it so um they're all good in other words it just kind of depends on people's tolerance people's goals you know that sort of thing and with that let's answer this question about retinol retinol palmitate specifically in sunscreen so ELISA over on patreon hello ELISA says I'm trying to find a good broad-spectrum lower priced sunscreen to apply liberally because you need to apply lots of sunscreen with no fragrance but they all contain retinol so far do you have a favorite and then she gave me some examples because I had a feeling she was talking about retinol palmitate which is different from retinol so you may have heard me or some other people talk about conversion when it comes to retinol products so retin-a which is a trenton Owen is bioavailable to the skin so it doesn't need to be converted to something else it doesn't need to be converted to retinoic acid retinol needs to be converted to retinoic acid that is a one-step conversion retinol palmitate gets converted to two steps so it gets converted to retinol first and then it gets converted to retinoic acid so the deal with sunscreens that contain retinol palmitate they're not containing retinol for the same purpose that a retinol product is containing retinol they're not containing retinol palmitate to trigger cell turnover or anything like that they're being used and you can look at the ingredient lists for most of these and see that they're being used in conjunction with vitamin E tocopheryl for product stability they are being put in these products for their antioxidant qualities and they are always in very small quantities in these sunscreens because no one is making sunscreens that are specifically designed to have that retinol function on the skin it's it's just for stability so there you can see on this example that you gave me of the up and up SPF 55 since sunscreens dick pardon me the retinol palmitate is listed after phenoxyethanol which is the primary preservative and took off for all is listed above those and then after the retinol palmitate is texture text oh my god Tektronix this is why I never say these names texture effects still Dessel ascorbate which is a form of vitamin C so those are being used together to stabilize the formula which is one of the reasons but antioxidants are used in formulations at small quantities so the reason people are a little bit iffy on retinol retinol palmitate in sunscreen is it's for a few reasons there there is some speculation that retinol palmitate can contribute to the formation of tumors I don't believe that is substantiated I find retinol palmitate to be irritating on my skin that's why I don't like it but people have a lot of opinions about using retinol palmitate especially in sunscreens I'm I would say that if it's really low probably don't worry about it unless you have an actual problem if you put it on your skin and the sunscreen is burning not like getting hot because sunscreen converts the energy of UV radiation to heat but if it's actually like feels like it's burning when you're indoors then your skin may be sensitized you may have a sensitivity to retinal palmitate or something else especially if you're using it with which we call it the synthetic the inner end yeah I'm sorry the organic sunscreens so the the oxybenzone stave a bit the oxy oxy Knox AIT's the able Benz owns that sort of thing they tend to burn a little bit on the skin anyway so if you experience that kind of thing then I would first of all try to find a mineral sunscreen they tend to be but better tolerated and if that still causes a problem and you see that retinal palmitate is a common denominator in those products then just keep looking around it and reading ingredient labels do I have a favorite body sunscreen that doesn't contain retinol palmitate I don't know because I haven't specifically tried to find one without retinol palmitate but the sunscreen that I have enjoyed over the past few years has been from a brand called blue lizard which is only an SPF 30 but the way I use sunscreen like if I go to the beach or something I reapply it constantly so I've never had a problem with that but you do get more protection the higher SPF you go you may need to look at some smaller black brands but when it comes to cheap sunscreen I just wouldn't worry about it too much unless you have a problem it's basically the thing and baby sunscreen is an old tip that I have for everyone who has sensitive skin and is having a hard time finding a sunscreen that maybe doesn't burn I would check out baby sunscreen because that is always my go-to when people tell me they have a hard time okay a Richard a Michael hello to you Richard ironic I love your channel I aspire to become an esthetician in the near future and in one of your videos you mentioned it's best not to wax when using any retinoids can you thread instead yes absolutely this is a common question come and follow a question when I talk about not waxing when the skin is compromised people want to know if you can do threading or epilating of any other kind not sugaring because sugaring and waxing you're pretty much the same and the answer is yes because of the problem with waxing when the the epidermis is kind of fragile is that it binds to the actual skin you know it's sticking to the skin if you imagine like you're putting a piece of a tape or something on the skin it's contacting the skin in addition to the hair whereas when you're threading the the way people thread if you've never seen threading down before they create a kind of V with the threads and then they open and close that the shape with the thread and it just picks up the hairs so it's basically like a more efficient form of tweezing so that does not stick to the skin in any way so it doesn't haven't the same risk of lifting up the skin if someone's skin is very very fragile then they could get tiny little cuts from the threads but anyone who's good at threading should be able to to thread without doing that I mean that's like really worst case scenario but the answer is yes and good luck to you on your path to becoming a skin care professional um Kristen J says derma wand thoughts question mark waste of money I googled that before I got started cuz I've never heard of that I don't know what it is is it a microcurrent device I was just looking at the website trying to figure out what it what it is and it doesn't actually say so feel free to tell me what it is if it's a microcurrent device then it's it's hard to say cuz I haven't tried it but I'd say go off of reviews see if other people think it's worthwhile and let's see oh hello Jenna Jenna's in the chat today hello Joyce Lee hello to you hello to Carolyn may we stand a pan thank you very much ms rel hello to you hater girl what can I do for dehydration lines under my eyes thank you very much ronica um i gels are really good for that actually because they are thick preparations of humectants with lots of water in them and they tend to plump up the skin really well so it for example if you experience kind of fine lines when you apply makeup or if your skin gets dry throughout the day try using an eye gel along with your other products you would apply that first look like apply a good thick layer of that kind of as if it were a gel mask and then after that absorbs a little bit apply moisturizer and let's see there was a question I passed can you tell us what kinds of products we should splurge on and what kinds of products we should save money on from Joyce Li yes I I started making a series about that before I took my hiatus so I generally recommend that people put the bulk of their money into treatment products so any any kinds of products that have lots of concentrated ingredients I would tell you to put your money there sometimes it's not necessary if you can find something from like the ordinary or any of those more simple kinds of brands then go for it but if you are thinking to yourself should I splurge on this one serum but may like weighing that against buying as somewhat expensive cleanser or an expensive moisturizer always go with the the concentrated ingredients the caveat is if you have a hard time finding things like moisturizers that work well for you then you may need to expand outside of the lower end to see what works because that's that's kind of the deal with skincare in general is that there's just no guarantee that you're gonna be able to find something that works well for you within any given price range but when it comes to things like cleansers you can absolutely do cleansers on the cheap toner is optional so it kind of depends what you need and and toner isn't one thing some toners are like exfoliating acids some toners aren't like mine they're just simply hydration and then they help remove residue from the skin moisturizer if you're just using moisturizer for the function of moisturizer then you usually don't need to go very expensive for that as long as you can find something that works sunscreen you can do on the cheap as long as again you can find one that that you tolerate well but there are lots of lots of options for most of those things the only thing that is really difficult to do on a budget is a complex highly concentrated serum product but you know your mileage may vary let's see someone Erin says on the topic of bisexuality I encourage you to read into the new definition yes I'm aware there's a whole thing between pansexual people and bisexual people bisexuality is attraction to your gender and other genders pansexuality is an attraction without the regard for gender we're not the same and I there this whole thing now uh it's like a rule any time any time a group talks about their own struggle their own erasure in a community like inevitably any time another group comes along with the same problems who is even less visible that group feels the need to turn around and say oh but don't look at them they're they're not you know they don't need your attention so we're actually dealing with a lot of that from the bisexual community in general bisexual people are plenty visible relative to us we all experience the same kind of judgment from the community at large there's something called biphobia there is the phenomenon of like gay people not wanting to date poly sexuals which is the umbrella term for people who experience attraction to multiple genders gay people don't necessarily want to date us because they don't trust us and straight people think that we are not weird that we're either really gay or we're just like experimenting or especially for women straight men think that our sexuality is about them and we're doing it like to turn them on and that's where it's tough so I'm aware I'm you know I'm well aware and it's not it's not confusion I'm not confused and I already know so I'm not trying to be rude it's just there's a there's a bit of someone someone wrote an article for GLAAD specifically for GLAAD talking about Deadpool and how Deadpool sexuality was played for laughs in the first Deadpool movie and it was supposed to be about pansexuality you know because Deadpool the Canon is classically represented as pansexual and this person writing for GLAAD actually referred to pansexual people as bisexual plus which is so offensive because if anyone ever referred to bisexual people as gay - y'all would throw a fit right so I would appreciate if people would stop trying to be like no you're actually just a form of bisexual like no we're different we we know what bisexuality is so I know I know the definition I see the bisexual buthe at pride every year i have tried to talk to the bisexual community directly they're not interested in talking to us they they're basically doing to us what the gay community has been doing to them since forever got a couple of super chats from aaron me appreciate the streams thank you very much not not trying to be rude to you either it's it's just like yeah this is I already know nut case since me and $1.99 super chat with a cutie face thank you very much nut case all right let's get back to some skin care questions uh let's see yeah mall says hi Veronica any recommendations for best ingredients for the skin barrier I have hyperpigmentation I started using a dappling recently with days off still makes my skin weirdly dry well yeah that's gonna happen that's a retinoid so best ingredients kind of depends on your tolerance if you are acne prone you're gonna want to stick to products that are lightly amoliant but that are still going to give your skin enough hydration in the form of humectants and when I say humectants this is being combined with water so you're not just like applying straight Western to your face but you do want to have a little bit of oil at the very least that way it helps prevent the trans epidermal water loss if your skin is like getting peeling patches and the kinds that I've demonstrated on Instagram before then you can put aquaphor on those or you can put like a light skin care oil on those you can also just treat different areas of your face as needed I talked about that I believe in my last skincare routine or maybe last week I talked about it recently that you can treat different areas of the face with different products as needed so you can use a different moisturizer on your cheeks then you use in your t-zone there's no rule against that you just do whatever works really so yeah the best ingredients ceramides are good they tend to be pretty well tolerated and if you know of a light skincare oil that works well for you that's pretty individual but rosehip seed oil seems to be a good one I've had good success with argan oil you can try layering that over your normal products but yeah just like keep keep when was I trying to say do a little bit of an experimentation and just see what works all right we're 24 minutes everybody in case you don't know what a super chat is it is a way for you to send me a message with a tip and that is a guaranteed way to get your question answered otherwise I may not get to your question and as always don't forget to Boop the like button because this will be a regular video when it wraps by the way how is this sound this week I tried to mess around with it to improve it for you so let me know that let me know if the sound is any louder better my concern is always that you know when I crease increase the volume for the sound it it you can clip the the higher volume noises can clip okay let's see nut case what do peptides do are there different ones with different jobs so yeah pretty much peptides do well it depends on who you ask so the the polite answer is that peptides are humectant and they they assist with moisturizing if you acknowledge the fact that there are not Studies on cosmetic ingredients for the most part and go off of consumer experience and cosmetic chemists and formulators experiences then peptides are good for skin regeneration there they have aid the skin in healing and regeneration so they're good to use in conjunction with things like retinol or chemical oh this foley ants so it kind of depends on whether you want to go with a strict definition based off of evidence-based skincare which is a very trendy thing right now this is a another question that I got on patreon or someone asking me about like where to read studies on on skincare and people are doing this thing now or every time I say something in a video I'm getting a comment like well where's where's the studies showing evidence for that like I got it it's it's it's good that people are thinking critically the problem is that this is a commercial industry and it's largely centered around the cosmetic appearance of skin so unless there's a medical application for a certain ingredient there may not be independent study on it because that's not a very important thing to study and there's a limited amount of money so most of the studies that we get are funded by the companies making those products because it benefits them to do those studies which is not necessarily an indictment but it does create a conflict of interest but otherwise studies are funded by universities health organizations and the government and they're just not going to fund studies for things that are strictly cosmetic that's the answer and so like for certain things the evidence is just going to be anecdotal it's just going to be user experience and that is still evidence and you know you got to keep in mind we're talking about cosmetics here pardon me so someone someone left me a comment asking me for studies backing up my I didn't even say anything specific about retinol palmitate I just said I didn't like it and asked me for studies backing that up and the study is that when I put it on my skin and in too large of a concentration it burns that's that's the study okay um let's see uh nut cases what do I do with really greasy but really sensitive and peely skin in my nose creases that gets blackheads oh yeah that's tough okay so peeling and greasy uh do you blow your nose a lot would be the first question because that's a problem that I have and that a lot of people have if you do blow your nose I would recommend to use very soft tissue the tissue that I like because I have to blow my nose a lot I have really terrible allergies the tissues that I use are these puffs ultra soft but not the ones with lotion I hate tissues with lotion ooh so yeah if you are rubbing your nose with very scratchy tissue that can irritate the skin pretty badly but the oil in your follicles is still gonna keep producing it's just not necessarily going to get to the outer layers of the skin okay you don't blow your nose for anyone else then who blows their nose otherwise I would say that there are a few things that can cause the skin around certain parts of the mouth or it's good certain parts of the face to become flaky if you're using exfoliating ingredients they can pool around the the corners in the nose if you're using retinol products same thing and generally speaking it's a it's a more difficult area to get when we are doing any kind of like micro exfoliation with our hands or scrubbing products or anything like that so it can just build up and it's true in certain areas of the body that just more skin so skin cells build up as a result of the anatomy in those places and because of the anatomy also the pores are there kind of just like in a nook tucked away so you could take some extra time with your cleanser and really just focus around that area and then also focus on using a light moisturizer and saturate that area really well and just experiment and see see what works for you if you're dealing with like grease during the day I would suggest blotting blotting sheets and you can also do clay masks I often just do a clay mask around the corners of my nose because I have very dry skin and the blackheads I do get are very very small but yeah that's when I do my little clay mask for my chin I sometimes will just put it around my nostrils as well all right let me see hello to Nancy and Sarah ESPO and I saw Jenice somewhere hello to you welcome I don't have Star Trek today so I'm a little a little less in a rush than usual let's see Stephanie a Blanche says please give some tips and products for very sensitive skin I can't get product recommendations other than just use fragrance free products rash like redness burning rash like pimples had an irritant contact dermatitis weeks ago and now I have ultra sensitive skin okay so contact dermatitis you need to treat that area of skin as if it is basically wounded you know that the area has been compromised and the skin is trying its best to recover from that trauma so I often recommend that people put aquaphor on those areas or at the very least just keep your routine on those areas very simple if it's all over your face and just use very simple products regularly and don't stress about things like like blackheads and anything like that until your skin recovers just do what you need to do to get the skin back to normal because a lot of times people feel a bit anxious about using aquaphor or any kind of heavier moisturizer or anything like that even if they have something like dermatitis or a sunburn or whatnot because they don't want to break out they don't want to deal with you know increase pore size in the area but really you're you're just dealing with the immediate problem that you have once your skin recovers it's it tends to go back to normal completely so you can go back to treating the other problems that skin has as normal but while it's compromised it can take a little while if it continues to be irritated so the goal is to protect it as much as possible sunscreen obviously very important because you don't want to increase the inflammation in the area avoid using very strong cleansers yeah just kind of baby it a little bit it would be the advice no fragrance nothing complicated no no chemical exfoliants no retinol just it just baby the area for a week for a while as long as it takes to to return to normal yeah and beyond that I can't give you specifics but yeah just avoid fragrance and essential oils let me look over on patreon ELISA wrote a bunch of stuff I am having a hard time with these patreon comments for some reason they can get cut off at some points so like some of these comments are getting cut off mid-sentence I'm still trying to figure out what what that's what that's doing oh we got a super cheque from Nancy hi Veronica tips for getting rid of back acne yeah there are usually specific reasons why people are breaking out on their back with women a common thing I see and men can see this as well if you take baths you can often experience some acne I actually had a roommate who had that problem she would take baths and use lots of oils and things and if you think about it everything you're putting in the bath water and then everything you're putting in the bath water gets on the bathtub itself and then if you lean back on the bathtub that's getting into your back and so that can be enough to trigger some breakouts there also women sometimes spray their perfume on their back and that can lead to enough irritation to cause breakouts it is probably a product or some combination of products rarely it can be something like a food that is something that I've experienced before that's a pretty random thing like I used to and my food allergies were much worse than they are now because they're autoimmune things I used to break out on my back when I ate pork products which is super random but more often than not it is something connected to a product and if if none of that applies and if changing products that you use doesn't work then I would probably see a doctor and just check for hormone levels and stuff like that because that is an area that can be triggered due to an excess of androgenic hormones how long hormones as well okay so the question I was looking at on patreon ELISA had another question let's see something about toothpaste an okay toothpaste I'm not really sure what you mean by that if do you specifically have to pick between a lesser of two evils in terms of sulfate I well if you if you're talking about the fact that the sulfates in toothpaste can sometimes lead to blackheads around the mouth or irritation around the mouth that's a combination of the sulfates and the irritations a combination of sulfates and mint probably but like if you brush your teeth first and rinse your mouth really well and that's usually enough you can if you want to go for some natural toothpastes I have some very sensitive spots in my teeth so I use a sensitive toothpaste personally and then she asks judge does glycerin soap still completely clean your hands for cooking and for keeping it in the bathroom I don't use glycerin soap to wash my hands I use it to clean my makeup brushes because it's a bar and it's just convenient to do to do it that way for my hands I use liquid soap but if you're talking about just washing your hands in the bathroom oddly enough it doesn't necessarily matter that you're picking up a bar and rubbing it in your hands ideally you wouldn't want him to be sharing that bar with a lot of people but the important thing is how much agitation you have with the soap to get the actual germs off of your hands and then you rinse the germs off of your hands with the water for kitchen for food prep I would use a liquid soap and I use a stronger soap in my kitchen than I do in my bathroom because I wash my hands and my bathrooms so much that I just don't want to strip them that much so I know I don't use bar soap to to wash my hands but in theory you can I would just not share that soap with a lot of people and I would use a liquid soap in the kitchen because there's just so much potential for about contamination in the kitchen if you aren't not using something you know you just want to be a sanitary as possible in the kitchen and we're hearing from patreon also says hi Veronica what is your favorite place to work as an esthetician doctor's office a spa etc definitely medical spas because of the wide variety of things that we get to do a medical spas there's just like a lot to do and it's all very complicated and it's all very interesting is all very challenging I often got bored if I if I wasn't in an environment where I was doing difficult things I would tend to get kind of bored and frustrated you know it never really like affected my ability to do my job but it did get kind of like monotonous to me if I wasn't able to do things that required a lot of concentration and a lot of training that's just me that's like one of the good things about doing the job of an aesthetician for people who wonder about whether or not becoming an aesthetician is a good job for them if you are in a spa or if you're doing your own practice and you set up a menu to be quite varied or if you are working in a spa that has a big variety of services then you can end up doing different things all day long I mean you're mostly gonna be doing facials right but you could be doing derma planing in one facial you be doing microderm another facial you could be doing TCA cross and another facial you could be doing a body treatment of some kind like there's just so much to do and in the last place I worked I was doing all different kinds of facials including the hydro facial I was doing I was doing waxing because I was offered waxing because that was just something I was good at I was doing a body treatment caught up called a body melt that involved mixing all this stuff together and creating this like conductive clay clay mask thing there was like you would basically put this conductive clay over electrodes that would cause people's muscles to contract and it was like giving them a bit of a false workout you know like for people actors were very fond of this in particular because it's it really does work - it sounds like but it absolutely does work it's so like for actors like that it's very popular to do on the ABS and on the on the on the back side yeah so you can just like do a lot of stuff over the course of the day but when you work at a medical spa your tasks tend to be a bit more complex which appeals to me all right sirrah ESPO says is it true oily skin is solely because of a lack of hydration no every time I mentioned I have an oily skin type I am bombarded with hydrate I use CeraVe cleanser and moisturizer and moisturize one to two times a day nope oh yeah this skin is mostly genetics more than anything else and sometimes it can be environment sometimes it could be health depending people who have more androgenic hormone our hormones are going to be oily ER but sometimes it is just genetics there are you know certain certain types of the in certain types of the world certain types the world certain places of the world people are going to have oily skin just by virtue of the fact that their climate is much warmer and that helps to protect the skin so I I would not I mean I wouldn't discount the advice of hydrating the skin especially because usually oily skin wants to use a reasonably strong cleanser to help with the the oiliness and the buildup of oil and skin cells in the pores so hydrating goes along with that so that you don't kind of throw off the the balance of the skin I hate using that term but it's it's something that's easily digestible so yeah I mean if you're cleansing and moisturizing your skin's your skins on oily skin type I wouldn't stress about it too much like a lots of people have a weally skin the the goal is not to change your skin type the goal is just to normalize your skin to the point where it's not doing unpredictable things that make you unhappy basically nickel dime says how to get rid of Whitehead bumps on the nose if they're actual milia you need to get them extracted unfortunately if they are closed comedones they still basically need to be extracted but they can be extracted gently at home you can use comedone extractor zon close common tones but unfortunately they do not work on point hits alternative to nose Pore strips would be mask masks generally but nothing's gonna do that really impressive thing that most strips do where they basically bind with the Tyrael inside the follicle the only big downside with those is that they're pretty harsh on the skin so I always just recommend that people use caution because when you rip them off they can they can traumatize the skin in this in a way worse way than waxing can so anyone using taking accutane using high-strength retinol products etc if you've recently had a sunburn don't use poor strips that sort of stuff Jenice crosby says once i got a huge case of reactive aback me from a l'oreal clay dries shampoo gave me 23 huge hits ah Wow interesting I wonder what was in that dry shampoo I wonder if that was because of cornstarch that would be interesting nickel dime says does ambi fade cream work for dark areas like elbows and knees so usually when we're talking about the darkness around elbows and knees that is a function of more melanin in the skin cells being piled on top of each other so there are more skin cells in those areas more dead skin cells in the stratum corneum in the the layers below there's just more buildup of skin cells in those areas so it's more effective generally speaking to exfoliate those areas just get some exfoliating gloves and exfoliate them regularly because it's not necessarily a hyperpigmentation that causes that darkness it's more just that skin is slightly translucent but when there is more melon in it you can definitely see the color accumulate more when you have more skin cells on top of each other because skin cells are flat by the time they reach the surface in the skin they are flat they're slightly translucent but if they are a little bit deeper anywhere from three to three to six Fitzpatrick three to six then you can see the melanin in them more apparently when they stack on top of each other whereas if I looked at my elbows and my knees they would just be pink because you know I don't have any melanin um Jenny scrubs me says I'll have to check the ingredients thanks yeah it's interesting the skin can respond in weird ways all sorts of things but um a dry shampoo I never heard that before but that would be my first guess is corn starch it this hasn't been like proven again I'm sorry I don't have Studies on everything but there has been plenty of speculation that putting cornstarch on acne prone skin or acne prone areas can be problematic because it is basically a form of sugar so that is an interesting thing to note otherwise I'm not sure what would be B in dry shampoo ah let me look at patreon is there anything I missed ELISA wrote me a bunch of stuff and I can't read some of it something about lip balm oh yeah so this is also wondering about finding good lip balms that are that don't contain bad ingredients with lip balms I wouldn't worry about it too much if you're going outside use this on-screen lip balm but if you're just inside if you're not if you're not like in front of a window if you're in front of a window you use a sunscreen lip balm but if you're just like around your house or whatever or if it's nighttime then I would just say avoid anything that would irritate your lips if your lips are chapped so mint oddly enough even though it's in a lot of like medicated lip balms mint is an irritant so avoid that cinnamon is an irritant citrus oils are irritants otherwise like vanilla in particular is very safe because even if you put vanilla essential oil on the skin that is one of the few essential oils that is not particularly bad for the skin it's just very very expensive and it doesn't have like a huge function in skin care so that's why you never really see vanilla being used in skin care but yeah I just wouldn't stress too much about it it sounds like you're very stressed about all these products and I don't want you to be that stressed yeah you have to keep in mind that like when I talk about stuff I have to be fairly black and white if I give people gray areas that tends to confuse them so I you know I say black and white things like don't use essential oils stay fragrance free but with lip balm its lip balm you can you can have vanilla lip balm you can have strawberry lip balm you know you know flavored lip balms are fine I would just you know just stay away from things that are like known irritants I got a ten dollar super chat from Kelly Phillips thank you very much is there an alternative facial steaming method aside from the machines or a scalding washcloth on my face I'm hoping to move internationally and I don't want to have to buy something I don't want to buy something I'll have to store showers showers easy an easy way to steamer face you take a bath and you don't need to use a scalding washcloth in your face you really shouldn't be using a scalding washcloth on your face and some people will like boil water and then put their head over a bowl with the water and that sort of thing that's that's like mmm I don't have the patience for that personally I but I also don't have a lot of blackheads so like this is not a personal quest that I have the the point of steaming is to soften the sebum deposits in your and your follicles right so any anything you do including showering and taking a bath and splashing warm water on your face it does not need to be hot it can just be warm any of that is going to help soften the oil deposits so you can just use a warm washcloth it does not need to be hot but the thing with using a superhot washcloth is that it takes longer to cool down so it's more convenient but it's not necessarily good for the skin to do that it's quite irritating and it can lead to and dilated capillaries so you can do the hot water and a bowl thing and just put your face over a bowl of hot water not into the hot water but just over the hot water if you really want just the steam otherwise I would just say take a shower and then do whatever do whatever you are wanting to do after this steam when you shower or after you shower because that's you know you're already getting steam in the shower unless you're taking cold showers is SOAs 80s oh he says like the video you guys that's right put that like button all right what's your opinion on tea tree oil says yummy yeah tea tree oil is kind of like it it's it has proven antimicrobial benefits but it also can be irritating it so if people are going to use it I would just say to dilute it and use it in small quantities and don't use it during the day if you're going to use it use it at night yeah that's that's that's the I just I know a lot of people really like tea tree oil and I think that it's not as bad as like lavender oil but yeah I mean it's still still a little bit disconcerting to like to think of people putting it straight on the skin Alicia says how do i how can I deal with stubborn Millia unfortunately Millia are tiny cysts underneath the skin they need to be extracted so we talked about this last week there's really not not much you can do topically for them because they are under the skin Josie and their Arista Krista cats I love that hey Veronica hey to you Josie you look gorgeous today thank you very much in case anyone's wondering I am wearing fenty Kandy venom on my lips today that is my lipstick of choice for the name I hope you're doing well would take would taking a ceramides orally have any effect in the epidermis thinning caused by retinol I doubt it specifically on the thinning no I don't think so because that would have to I would have to counteract a pretty significant process that's taking place so I don't I don't really know much about taking steroids or orally to tell you the truth but to specifically counteract the thinning of the epidermis I would say no I would just focus on sunscreen and decreasing sensitivity wherever you can if you're experiencing symptoms of irritation that can come with having the epidermis thinned out I would just focus on managing that if you if you want to take serum eyes like this talk to you supplement have ceramides in it like I forget what the deal is with her her supplement my thing on supplements just like to tell you real quick I mentioned this in the past but let me just reiterate I I don't endorse them wholesale and I don't dismiss them wholesale and I know that's not necessarily what people want to hear people want to hear some some like very black-and-white thing like oh I'm sure it's all snake oil trash garbage but the thing is I have taken here it's going to kneel in the past like cheap ones and I've seen in particular a very significant difference in my nails so I know there's something and that one didn't even have biotin in it so I know there's some some mechanism and there definitely is a connection between nutrition and the health of the skin the hair in the nails so I don't know with these supplements is the answer and no they're not regulated which is unfortunate but again when it comes to things like cosmetic things cosmetic treatments it's it's kind of just not there just is not going to be funding for that I really wish that there would be more comprehensive funding and I talked about this last week if I had a magic wand and I could change things in our government I would really change the the breath and expand the breath and the authority of the FDA because a lot of what they don't regulate is based on politics it's based on the lack of funding and it's based on what lobbyists push politicians to to do so lobbyists for larger companies in particular have lobbied against the FDA having much authority and against the FDA doing a lot of testing so you know that is that is basically okay so taught to use supplement has ceramides halo-halo guinea yes I yeah I don't repeat myself and jelka s says hi Veronica you look beautiful as always thank you very much on the facial steaming note is there any skincare benefits to facial steaming we have talked about this a lot the benefit is to soften the sebum deposits in your face that is basically it it also increased the circulation but so does taking a shower C & RM lupus yeah how do you know if a vitamin C room is being effective a vitamin C serum is being effective I never seen seem to notice a difference thanks for all the helpful info you may not that is kind of the thing with vitamin C products is that you may not necessarily see a big difference right away like you would with a high strength retinol product there are certain antioxidant products that I do see a big difference with and that people have seen a big difference with I personally see a really big difference with the derma truth in the beginning serum that I use which is antioxidants and peptides and some other stuff I I see a huge difference with that one but using just for example like the Paula's Choice ce4 Olek serum that they they and lots of other people have copied from SkinCeuticals I didn't really see like a day-to-day difference the benefit that you're getting was with antioxidants is first of all long-term improvement of pigmentation in the skin plus when you're combining it with sunscreen that is better sun protection so sunscreen is the primary way to protect your skin from sun damage but if you are using a vitamin C product with sunscreen meaning underneath sunscreen it provides substantial and as a substantial improvement to the sunscreens ability to protect you so they're really great use together and also nowadays people are saying that antioxidants and you know vitamin C I was talking about that vitamin C when talking about antioxidants cuz that's my go-to but you know the antioxidants in general can't be protective from blue light exposure which is really only a concern because it can trigger melanin production and worse and hyperpigmentation but that's still kind of unclear the extent to which it can do that is unclear because we are not necessarily getting tremendously huge amounts of light but if hyperpigmentation is a concern I would definitely use a vitamin C product and as for like because people keep saying like so and so at the drugstore has a vitamin C serum I don't know what concentrations people have of their vitamin C products in the drugstore I don't trust big companies like L'Oreal to make good vitamin C products at for the on the cheap and I I would definitely recommend if you can't afford an expensive vitamin C serum I would recommend that you di y1 over buying like a cheap orange scented one I just hate those because you can buy l-ascorbic acid and just make small small batches just don't go above 10 to 15% um let's see but but to give you an idea of like why I have such faith in vitamin C products because that sounds kind of weird right that sounds like a little nonsense like you may not see anything but keep using it anyway I do have the benefit of having been a professional who treated other people and have like sold these products to other people and had them come back and say wow I really noticed a big difference so that's substantial to me and then there is the wide wide field of consumer reviews thousands and thousands of consumer reviews that tell me that aid there's definitely like your plenty of people who can tell you that it works well for them but B that it also depends on the product so yeah I would just if you if it's not something that you feel comfortable investing in then don't worry about it but I do feel comfortable telling people that it's good basically that's that's the answer thank you Jellico's facial steaming with dried plant botanicals I'm noticing an increase in steam packages for adding to facials steaming routine that's if you're like steaming plants and stuff I don't necessarily think that's gonna do much for the skin it but that's plants aren't one thing so it kind of depends on what the plants are but I think a lot of a lot of that stuff is psychological a lot of the time when people put things on their skin that they really love the smell of they feel like that's doing more for the skin even if it's exactly the same effect you know what I mean like this is something that I hear all the time when people talk about starting their own cosmetics or their own skincare lines or their own skin oil lines that they mix their own oil at home and put a bunch of a nice-smelling essential oils in it and then they use it on people and the people were like oh my god I love this that's probably because of the smell not because the oil was like some extra ordinary breakthrough people like nice smelling things and that is an unfortunate part of skincare because usually the nice smelling things are worse for the skin and the things that don't smell or the things that smell like vitamin C which smells like batteries and lunch meat let's see we have just a few minutes left if you have a question you really want to get answered or if you just want to say thank you send me a super chat and don't forget to Boop the like button and leave me a comment in the video description or not in the video description in the comments where else would you leave a comment let me read through these questions here I tried any products with green tea and did I notice any benefits um green tea I mean it's not like the sort of ingredient I think that would be super noticeable I definitely think it's a good ingredient it's a relatively easy way to get some antioxidants into a product and people certainly like to see it on on labels and it actually does smell nice so it's one of the nice smelling ingredients that is not a fragrant ingredient so I don't I don't necessarily seek out green tea in my products but I'm not averse to it certainly stefanini bunch says thank you very much for your answer it got worse yesterday when I used the hyaluronic acid serum from Vichy was this was this the dermatitis sorry yeah yeah this is the different re-start sometimes if you update me in the in the chat I it's helpful to like mention which which conversation we were having so it got worse when I use the hyaluronic acid serum from Vichy hyaluronic acid can be a little irritating if your skin is already compromised so it goes away I mean it's it's an acidic pH hyaluronic acid so if you're putting that on top of skin that is compromised because dermatitis like in terms of how this can behave is not dissimilar from chapped skin so it you wouldn't want to put anything tremendously acidic on top of it because it's gonna cause irritation that's what I mean when I say keep it simple until the skin re normalizes and then after it after it heals it'll be back to normal and you'll be good as new but until then just just keep it really simple cleanser moisturizer sunscreen and maybe maybe aqua for how long will it take to heal kind of depends on how severe it is and whether it's being aggravated by anything else but generally speaking it definitely resolves within a month it usually can resolve within two weeks but it depends on the severity and depends on if anything else is is irritating it all right everybody we are at an hour let me find one more question let's see what have I not answered my mom oh I'm not sure what tact to pump is I'm sorry Carrie I haven't heard of that let's see the Angela cassettes they tend to be aromatic and was wondering if it's river frivolous indulgence with regards to the the plant steaming it depends on the plants but that's just it's really hard to say I think that more than anything it's it's for the aromatherapy you know aspect for the for the nice experience of it and that's you know it's I'll say this about fragrance this is like the only argument for fragrance and skincare is that it it's a psychological reward that can sometimes motivate people to do things so if you're talking about whether to remove fragrance altogether from skin care the one argument you could make is that if you add an something that smells nice - a product that can make people feel more motivating more more motivated to use it it make people look forward to using it and it's easy to build a routine when you have like an emotional attachment or the to an experience you know attacked a chuck - pump is different apparently yeah difference difference good as tolerated it's generally recommended for people who have acne blackheads and that sort of thing as tolerated I can't really I don't have time to get into it too much right now but Oh it's been adapting and benzoyl peroxide well yeah I mean if it's if it's working for your skin then I would say go ahead and use it it can cause some dryness I would wonder what the percentage of benzoyl peroxide is been soft peroxide is is good as well but if you're using both of them then it can be very drying so I would just keep an eye on that make sure you're using lots of sunscreen got a super chat from RM lupus yeah and no question with it but a dollar ninety-nine thank you very much appreciate that and do I prefer to unscented aquaphor or normal I don't think there is a scented version of Agra for is there there are other brands that make scented scented appointments but I've never actually seen a scented aquaphor so I would say you go unscented always that's my preference with the exception of lip balms and I wear lip balms that have like vanilla flavouring in them but otherwise always always go unscented whenever possible and I got a $3 super shot from Angelica s thank you very much and jelica thank you everyone so much for all the super chats and the great questions and for letting us have some conversation about LGBTQ issues on the platform really appreciate that felt it was important to mention and yeah I'm open to having more conversations about you know what's happening in the the community with regards to the the bisexual community versus the pansexual community it's a can of worms so it's kind of difficult to get into that on a live stream but yeah feel free to reach out to me if any of you ever have questions about that sort of stuff I'm always available so thank you very much everybody for joining us don't forget to Boop that like button and leave me a comment after the video raps and yeah thank you very much for watching and I will see you again next week hope you everyone have a wonderful week

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Some of today's topics include: what are different antioxidants and what do they do, LGBTQ community talk, whether retinyl palmitate is a problem in sunscreen, can you do threading while using Retin A (and retinol or Accutane), what works well on "dehydration lines" around the eyes, recovering from dermatitis, what helps with back acne (backne!), and do you need a scientific study to support every ingredient in skin care? Super Chats are a great way to show that you appreciate the time and energy that go into these streams, and to make sure your question gets answered. You can also pre-submit livestream questions by becoming a supporter on Patreon! Patreon:

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Notes: Chat Guidelines: - Super Chat questions are guaranteed to be answered. (If they follow the guidelines below.) - Please do not repeat the same question/comment over and over. Be respectful of others in the chat. - I can't give specific product recommendations. - There are no dumb questions, but there are good/bad ways to ask a question. Good: "Is using coconut oil ok if I have acne?" Bad: "How do I cure my acne?" - I can't answer questions like "How do I fix my skin", or "What products should I use". - Feel free to ask non-skin care related questions. Let's get to know each other! - No toxic behavior of any kind will be tolerated. - By participating in this chat, you acknowledge that I cannot be held liable should something bad happen as a result of me saying words. Talk to your doctor, yadda yadda. Makeup: Primer: Wet n Wild Photo Focus Foundation: MUFE Ultra HD, R210 Concealer: MUFE HD R20, Colourpop No Filter Fair 10 Powder: Physician's Formula Mineral Wear Loose Powder, Translucent Contour: Fenty Matchstix Amber Bronzer: L'Oreal True Match powder C5 Blush: Hourglass Incandescent Electra Highlight: Lips: Fenty Candy Venom Eyes: MAC Vex, Sydney Grace Cool Brown, Colourpop CRZY liner Mascara: Hourglass Caution Brows: MAC Spiked Lashes: Ardell Baby Demis Nails: (if you read all this, leave a cat emoji bc you're a cool cat.) ------------------ Hi, I'm Veronica, a CIDESCO certified, medically trained esthetician. As of 2018, I have been an esthetician for 15 years! My resume includes a famous LA plastic surgery center's medical spa, a five-star hotel, two of the most famous waxing institutions in Beverly Hills, and I have spent four years consulting with brands on R&D and marketing. My skin care philosophy may be a bit different than a lot of what you hear about on the internet, but it's based on many years of professional and personal experience and study. And my cats are cute. If anything that I say is helpful to you, I would sincerely appreciate if you take a moment to like and share my videos! xo
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